Evolution Basin High Pass Loop, 35 miles, 12,000 ft, July 5-9, 2021
I maintain a Caltopo map of all my recent Sierra hikes, and this trip was designed to fill in a gap in the map of some places where I have not previously ventured. I did no research on these places and just made decisions by carving out what seemed an interesting path on the map. I wanted to experience the two high-passes Lamarck Col and Haekel Col, and fill in the area between Goddard Canyon and Evolution Basin, just east and below Emerald Peak. Originally I was going to sweep down as far as the Ionian Basin to climb Scylla, but I needed an additional day and was not going to miss the last game of the Eurocup for some peak that isn’t going anywhere soon.
High-passes are exactly that- places to cross mountain ranges at very high altitude that are almost always somewhat rough off-trail travel. They may be the most direct path to travel to a destination, but may not be easier than taking the long ways around on a trail to get to the same place. The graph below shows the significant 4,000 ft ascents and descents required on this trip.
I drive up from Los Angeles and depart at 1:30 pm from Lake Sabrina headed for Lamarck Col. It starts with a very attractive trail. Beyond that, “use” trails are easy to find and the Lamarck path is even indicated on the Mapbuilder Topo map, so it is not an esoteric route.
I start to struggle a bit starting at 11,000 ft and decide to camp. That first day going from essentially zero sea level to 11,000 ft can be challenging.
The next day I feel better and the climb over Lamarck Col, which is a common garden variety class-2 talus slog with small climbing episodes.
At the top I get my first glimpse of the Darwin Canyon Lakes. I meet three guys who are half my age who complain about the hike up, so my ego and self-doubts are partially relieved. Once at the bottom I jump in for a quick swim. Anything more than two minutes and my body temperature will drop too much and I will be too chilled. The walk along the several lakes over talus is slow going and a bit tedious.
I am always amazed at how small delicate forms of life appear at high altitude, usually in hidden spots.
Beyond the Darwin lakes I descend to the area known as Darwin Bench, and it is so outstanding that I slow down and spend several hours admiring the many water features and general beauty. Just the drop of a few hundred feet introduces a lot more scenic vegetation. I really can’t believe that I have not visited here before; it should be celebrated as a premium destination.
More quick swim opportunities are embraced.
I descend another 1,000 ft and join the John Muir Trail in Evolution Valley. Everything changes- trees, meadows, vegetation and animals all appear, with the peak The Hermit always in view.
OK, it is just a deer, but I still love to see wild animals of any sort.
I get a decent view of the next day climb and it does not look bad.
No way around it, you have to start the day crossing the river and getting wet feet. I don’t prefer wet shoes, but my Sportivas don’t feel annoyingly wet for very long.
Sure enough, when I begin to smell a “use trail”, it shows up, along with a confirming cairn. I had no idea from topo maps what this morning would be like; it could have been misery, stepping through brush and high rocks, or going up loose sloppy terrain. Instead it is tree covered and solid, really not bad at all.
At the top I reach a series of unnamed charming lakes.
I come across a field of black rocks on a white terrain that feels like a designed art installation.
And then when I look up it is all explained; there is a large white plateau where the higher black rocks rain down from above.
I reach a pass that on the High Sierra Topix site is “unofficially” named Emerald Pass because of the nearby Emerald Peak; seems like a good name. Several paths seem obvious from afar, but it proves to be tricky to connect it all up. Nothing terribly difficult, but not something for class-2 hikers.
View looking back at Lake 10918.
The ramp.
I descend to a first small lake and then a lower one named “10865” that proves to be especially scenic and appealing.
Even at 10,865 ft, this is not a typical high altitude barren lake, it really appeals to me. I could imagine spending a few days here. OK, time for a swim.
There are tons of Northern Bluet Dameselflies. They grab onto grass reeds to avoid being blown away by the wind.
After Lake 10,865 I descend some more to go south to the McGee Lakes, which are located top center in this photo. I have to decide between dropping several hundred feet and making a straight beeline across, or sweeping around at altitude. I decide to sweep around and endure some misery climbing through brush. It takes about two hours.
There are numerous lakes extending over a large area that constitute the Mcgee Lakes, and they are intermixed with islands and other terrain features, so no one photograph does an adequate job of capturing the place.
The next morning I take off for Pass 11,720. I take a photo using my new “PeakVisor” app which conveniently shows my entry and exit high passes.
Pass 11720 connects the McGee Lakes with Davis Lake. When I reach the top I look around briefly for an alternate route out because it is clear that this will be a very long and ugly descent. The steepness, rocks and sand are not the worst I have ever experienced, but they rank up in the top ten for unpleasantness.
Pass 11720 is a real garbage chute.
I am relieved to reach the bottom and jump in for a quick swim. I had planned some time to explore Davis Lake only to discover that there was really nothing to explore and no reason to stay around.
I turn my attention to heading west over “Wanda Pass” towards Wanda lake and the John Muir Trail. It is a simple slash in the landscape, hardly qualifying as a true pass.
How did this huge random rock land here, from where, and how long ago?
I join the JMT at Wanda lake in the Evolution Valley and enjoy it so much that I walk some distance north to the end of Evolution lake and then return back to my final destination at Sapphire lake.
Trekking pole holes pepper the trail. I see some people but still feel that traffic is less this year than it used to be in July in years past.
I am treated with a perfect sunset.
I find a nice spot south of Sapphire lake where I can see and contemplate the hike over Haeckel Col the next day.
The hike up to Haeckel col is a fun and intermixed class-2 + 3 climb. I am always dismayed by how much I slow down at 12,000 ft. I have learned to not get too frustrated and just accept that travel at high altitude is just naturally slower.
There is an unusually large vein of quartz at the top.
I try to cross over at an impossible high point and have to go back down and feel around to find an acceptable point to descend. As has been noted eleswhere, the best cross-over is actually north of the low point of the pass.
I now have a long and 4,000 ft descent to finish the trip. The last two rock episodes above and along Midnight Lake are confusing and take some time to navigate. I think on ascent it is all obvious and easy, but on descent there are some confusing moments.
I join a trail starting at Midnight Lake. It is very scenic but as is too often the case at the end of the day and I am too focussed on finishing to adequately appreciate the beauty of it all. I spend the night in Bishop at yet another lousy hotel, and the next morning I stop off at some abandoned sites in the Mojave Desert to break up the drive home.